While I really love having big, beautiful trees in my yard, I understand those lovely trees with their big roots may someday cause my home’s pipes to back-up. This actually causes more problems than you’d think. Did you know your pipes can be damaged by a tree that is hundreds of yards away or even in a neighbor’s yard several houses down the street?

When roots grow into your pipes it is called root intrusion (at least in the plumbing world). But the roots really aren’t to blame; it’s actually cracked pipes or bad joints that allow roots to break into pipes.

Roots actively seek out pipes because they like to lap up the moisture from the pipes. Because condensation forms around pipes, tree and shrub roots are naturally drawn to pipes even when they are not broken. Older pipes are the most susceptible due to cracks, deformations and leaks. This often leads to blockages in your pipes.

Mr. Rooter® service professionals can use video inspection cameras to locate roots in your pipes.  Here’s wishing you a world class day.

The Root of the Problem

It’s surprising, but true – roots from a tree or bush several hundred yards and several houses away can damage your home’s plumbing system if they break into your pipes.

It’s called root intrusion, and it can create major blockage in your line.

“Trees and shrubs seek water to grow, and pipes provide the perfect environment,” says Mary Kennedy Thompson, president of the Mr. Rooter Corporation. “Roots are even drawn to unbroken pipes because of condensation and will grow alongside and around the pipe to lap up the moisture.”

There is a misconception that roots are the problem, but Thompson says the problem is actually the pipe because the roots cannot get in the pipe unless there is a crack or bad joint. The older the pipe, the more susceptible it is to cracks, breaks and deformations.

A possible sign of root intrusion is a sudden back up or flooding of the lowest plumbing fixture in the house. When you fill a bathtub or shower with water and let it drain, look for this warning signal:

• If you don’t see the water exiting in a swirling, cyclonic action, it might be a good time to call a qualified, licensed plumber.

Mr. Rooter utilizes the most current technology to specialize in sewer and drain maintenance, repair and replacement.

“Those who suspect root intrusion need information to make the best decision to protect their homes,” Thompson explains. “We offer our drain cleaning customers sewer camera inspections to properly identify the problem and provide solutions.”

Here are some helpful tips for home plumbing. Should you wish to perform your own plumbing maintenance using the information we provide on this website, please be aware that Mr. Rooter Corporation cannot be held responsible for any actions not taken by a trained Mr. Rooter technician.

• Water Efficiency: A low flow toilet alone uses 20 percent less water per flush. Combine that with an efficient shower head that also uses 20 percent less water, and the utility bill savings are obvious.
• Don’t put pumpkin pulp and seeds down the garbage disposal: Instead of breaking down like most foods, the orange pulp hardens and clogs the drain.
• Don’t flush your money: Take a whirl at inspecting your toilet.
• Drain Gurgling: This is a blockage of air in the drain, typically caused by a clog. Removing the clog should fix the problem.
• Don’t Let Food Reek Havoc: Young children often huddle under the covers in their bedrooms, certain that a monster prowls in the closet or under the bed. Most parents will open the closet door or peek under the bed to remind them that the coast is clear. But if your children accused your kitchen sink of harboring a shady presence, would you be able to deny it? Something foul may be lurking in your sink. Here are some tips for removing garbage disposal odor.
• How to Detect a Silent Leak: Put several drops of dark food coloring into your toilet tank. If the dye appears in the bowl, you need to replace the valve seal ball or flapper at the bottom of the tank.
• Water Conservation: If every household in America and Canada had a faucet that dripped once each second, 928 million gallons of water a day would leak away. Here are some tips for conserving water.
• Choosing a Water Heater: Here is a handy guide to finding a water heater.
• Emergency Shutoff Valves: Prevent plumbing headaches and even property loss. Learn about emergency shutoff valves.
• Shower Drain Clogs: Most shower clogs can be corrected easily with a minimum of hassle and mess. Here are some things you can do with a clogged drain before you call the plumber
• Whistling Noise : It could be a broken faucet washer or extremely high water pressure.
• The Root of the Problem: It’s surprising, but true – roots from a tree or bush several hundred yards and several houses away can damage your home’s plumbing system if they break into your pipes. It’s called root intrusion, and it can create major blockage in your line.
• Holiday Tips: Don’t let a clogged drain dampen your holiday spirit. Here are some tips for preventing a clogged drain.
• Super Bowl parties can be a super problem for plumbing systems if you don’t tackle some plumbing precautions.
• Use Food Coloring to Save Money: Click here to find out how.
• Citrus Peels Can Deodorize Garbage Disposal: Click here to find out how.
• Earth Day Tips: Learn how to look for leaks and conserve water .
• Save Water, Save Money: Let Mr. Rooter® Plumbing show you how to conserve our most precious resource, water.
• Water Conservation Checklist: Click here for the checklist.
• Energy Efficiency Tips: Thanks to tax credits, making your home more energy efficient is no longer a taxing problem on your pocketbook. Click here to find out how.

Please note: While we have done our best to offer useful information, these tips are only suggestions, and we recommend you call us for information specific to your situation. Click here to view our Legal Statement.

Households that are not served by public sewers usually depend on septic tank systems to treat and dispose of wastewater. A well-designed, installed, and maintained septic system can provide years of reliable low-cost service. When these systems fail to operate effectively, property damage, groundwater and surface water pollution, and disease outbreaks can occur. Therefore, it makes good sense to understand and care for your septic tank system.

There are many different types of septic tank systems to fit a wide range of soil and site conditions. The following information will help you understand a conventional gravity-flow septic system and keep it operating safely at the lowest possible cost. A conventional septic tank system has three working parts:

1. The septic tank.
2. The drainfield with its replacement area.
3. The surrounding soil.

The typical septic tank is a large buried rectangular, or cylindrical container made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, Wastewater from your toilet, bath, kitchen, laundry, etc., flows into the tank. Heavy solids settle to the bottom where bacterial action partially decomposes them to digested sludge and gases.

Most of the lighter solids, such as fats and grease, rise to the top and form a scum layer. Septic tanks may have one or two compartments. Tees or baffles are provided in the tank’s inlet and outlet pipes. The inlet tee slows the incoming wastes and reduces disturbance of the settled sludge. The outlet tee keeps the solids or scum in the tank. All tanks should have accessible covers for checking the condition of the baffles and for pumping both compartments. If risers extend from the tank to or above the ground surface, they should be secure to prevent accidental entry into the tank.

Solids that are not decomposed remain in the septic tank. If not removed by periodic pumping, solids will accumulate until they eventually overflow into the drainfield. Most septic tanks need to be pumped every 3 to 5 years, depending on the tank size, and the amount and type of solids entering the tank.

The wastewater leaving the septic tank is a liquid called effluent. It has been partially treated but still contains disease-causing bacteria and other pollutants.

The Drainfield

The drainfield receives septic tank effluent. It has a network of perforated pipes laid in gravel-filled trenches (2-3 feet wide), or beds (over 3 feet wide) in the soil. Wastewater trickles out of the pipes, through the gravel layer, and into the soil. The size and type of drainfield depends on the estimated daily wastewater flow and soil conditions. Every new drainfield is required to have a designated replacement area. It must be maintained should the existing system need an addition or repair.

Typical Conventional Drainfield System

The Soil
The soil below the drainfield provides the final treatment and disposal of the septic tank effluent. After the effluent has passed into the soil, most of it percolates downward and outward, eventually entering the groundwater. A small percentage is taken up by plants through their roots, or evaporates from the soil. The soil filters effluent as it passes through the pore spaces. Chemical and biological processes treat the effluent before it reaches groundwater, or a restrictive layer, such as hardpan, bedrock, or clay soils. These processes work best where the soil is somewhat dry, permeable, and contains plenty of oxygen for several feet below the drainfield. Warning signs of a failure:

• Odors, surfacing sewage, wet spots or lush vegetation in the
  drainfield area.
• Plumbing or septic tank backups.
• Slow-draining fixture.
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system.

If you notice any of these signs or if you suspect your septic tank
system may be having problems, contact Mr. Rooter for assistance.

Caring for Your System:

1. Practice water conservation. The more wastewater you produce, the more the soil must be treated and disposed of. By reducing and balancing your water use, you can extend the life of the drainfield, decrease the possibility of system failure, and avoid costly repairs.
2. Keep accurate records. Know where your septic tank system is and keep a diagram of its location. Records of its size and location may be available at your local health agency. It is also wise to keep a record of maintenance on the system. These records will be helpful if problems occur, and will be valuable to the next owner of your home.
3. Inspect your system once each year. Check the sludge and scum levels inside your septic tank to assure that the layers of solids are not within the early warning levels. Also check the tank to see if the baffles and tees are in good condition. Periodically inspect the drainfield and downslope areas for odors, wet spots, or surfacing sewage. If your drainfield has inspection pipes, check them to see if there is a liquid level continually over 6 inches. This may be an early indication of a problem.
4. Pump out your septic tank when needed. Don’t wait until you have a problem. Routine pumping can prevent failures, such as clogging of the drainfield and sewage back-up into the home. Using a garbage disposal will increase the amount of solids entering the septic tank, requiring more frequent pumping.
5. Never flush harmful materials into the septic tank. Grease, cooking fats, newspapers, paper towels, rags, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, and cigarettes cannot easily decompose in the tank. Chemicals such as solvents, oils, paint, and pesticides are harmful to the system’s proper operation and may pollute the groundwater.
6. Keep all runoff away from your system. Water from surfaces such as roofs, driveways, or patios should be diverted away from the septic tank and drainfield area.
7. Protect your system from damage. Keep traffic, such as vehicles, heavy equipment, or livestock off your drainfield or replacement area. The pressure can compact the soil or damage pipes. Before you plant a garden, construct a building, or install a pool, check on the location of your system and replacement area.
8. Landscape your system properly. Don’t place impermeable materials over your drainfield or replacement area. Materials, such as concrete or plastic, reduce evaporation and the supply of oxygen to the soil for proper effluent treatment. They can also hinder access to the system for pumping, inspection, or repair. Grass is the best cover for your system.
9. Never enter any septic tank. Poisonous gases or the lack of oxygen can be fatal. Any work on the tank must be done from outside.